300ZX TT to 350 Chev & TT manual Gearbox

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SpankyDevil
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300ZX TT to 350 Chev & TT manual Gearbox

#1 Post by SpankyDevil » Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:19 pm

ok what a job its been but slowly getting there
the final outcome will be a
350 Chev Twin Turbo Manual in a 300zx 2+0

ok so i have my twin pods and front mount intercooler allready done.
computer i am buying a mega squirt V3 this model can control boost , 8 injectors, and 8 coils perfect for my job.

the 350 Chev i brought is a 1993 4 bolt mains, it comes with TBI (2 injectors )eewwww lol so im removing that and installing the TPI with 8 injectors that comes standard on some chevs.

ok now the hard stuff first job making the adaptor plate for the gearbox now i was informed for a jap box they have to be within 0.005" now trust me thats a pain in the ass casue first plate i made i drilled the holes and had 7thou movement so for the plate im using now i had to use the lathe to do the holes and have them within 2 throu.

now for the flywheel the Nissan Gearbox runs a 12" flywheel and the chev smallest you can get is 13" so i found out that a Ford Falcon EB flywheel is 12" and is very close to fitting the chev bolts so i was able to machine the flywheel to suit and put the nissan ring gear on it
and it fits perfect running the orginal starter

oh and i had to get the flywheel balanced as the chev i brought is the single peice main seal so its externally balanced

now to fit the chev in i had to move the gearbox back 75mm now turning the bracket around gave me 25mm so just had to cut and add another 50mm and change the gear lever bracket as well

and of course shorten the drive shaft 75mm no bigger there

i had to tap the firewall up a little but not much so just used an air chessel with a flat end on it and a little tap where the dizzy fits and where the starter hits

engine mounts now these were easy photos describe best i think

i have had to use the chevy short water pump and with a new alloy rad in the orginal place i have about 15mm clear :)

my next job is mounting the aircon pump , alt , and power stearing,

i am still going to be using all the good 300zx features including cruise control and hicas

i have sat the engine down as low as i can get it without changing the steering rack and this gives me enough room with the new injected manifold to fit the bonnet with out changing it

i had to change the sump made it flat with a bump in it to clear the steering.

im alittle bit worried about over heating but untill i get to that part i wont know just yet and only reason is becasue i have intercooler , oil cooler, aircon then rad all at the front in a line.

im running the standard gauges so will just fit the nissan temp sensor and oil pressure sender

turbos im running 2 x T3/T4 turbos hoping to put them in about the same location as on the standard engine

im just in the process of sorting out the spigot bearing (Pilot Bearing)
the chevs run a Needle Roller Bearing but this has an I.D of 15.24mm and i know my shaft is worn but prob not that much as they are 16mm standard

i can pull the gearbox to bits and machine the shaft to fit but right now im hoping i can just find a 15.5 - 16mm I.D bearing

i have prob missed some info but heres some pics.
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Last edited by SpankyDevil on Sun Jan 09, 2011 11:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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beta
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#2 Post by beta » Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:59 pm

Fingers crossed with the cooling, what's the stroy with the motor, are you going to get it done up, get it revving to 8K rpm? :wink:

SpankyDevil
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#3 Post by SpankyDevil » Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:17 pm

well im unsure there really i would love to buy some alloy heads that flow better and rebuild the engine but at the second im not even looking into it as theres so much to do to even get the car running

the engine i got is the L05 and runs low compression 8.6:1 i think the numbers are ive been told i should be able to run 5psi no problem at all on a standard block and they handle about 450HP standard.

but thats just what ive been told once its running ill start tuning and see what happens.

atleast there cheap to rebuild not like the VG30DETT

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#4 Post by ultrapulse » Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:41 pm

I have a spreadsheet I put together which has around 100 dynoed combinations of SBC which put out upto and over 500hp at under 6000rpm, ie street combinations. Also the components (trickflow heads etc) can be had thru segedins quite cheap (like all chev stuff). If you wannit Im sure I can dig it up.
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SpankyDevil
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#5 Post by SpankyDevil » Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:06 pm

oh true yeah wouldnt mind having a read if you can find it please.

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#6 Post by ultrapulse » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:18 pm

send me a pm with email so i can email it. Also have prob got some of your bits youre after so next time youre in hams I'll dig them up.

BTW sorry I didnt get a collection together to post out, and see that the post is now gone...I have been on a few mish's lately
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Slashman
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#7 Post by Slashman » Mon Jan 03, 2011 8:23 pm

Cool project.

I'll be watching with interest.

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TT_ZX
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#8 Post by TT_ZX » Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:09 pm

Are you going to be running 1 coil per cylinder instead of the dizzy then?
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MikeC
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#9 Post by MikeC » Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:33 pm

I hope the Devil pops up and gives you a damn good spanking for doing this. :P

I agree this is a cheaper swap if you just need to get a Z going, but I am pretty sure it is easier and cheaper to get higher, more reliable horsepower out of a VG30DETT than out of a 350Chev.

Due to the Z's stronger internals, you can get 500 horsepower with just bolts on, I doubt a stock 350 chev will handle that.

But interested in following your progress.

Seen some good stuff lately with those Megasuirt computers lately - much cheaper than a LINK but seem to have similar functions.

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#10 Post by ultrapulse » Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:59 am

MikeC wrote:...but I am pretty sure it is easier and cheaper to get higher, more reliable horsepower out of a VG30DETT than out of a 350Chev.
:?: By the time you recon your std VG to get the reliable lazy 500hp, you would have bought 2 x 350 chev rebuild kits using nice upgraded crank/rod/piston kits. Complete trickflow heads are also less than 2K (last time I looked). I'd have to say for reliable power a good NA chev using the right components would be hard to beat.

You'll also be able to reach down beside the engine if something needs a tighten. Of if u like being able to see the ground around the engine :)

Must look up those ECU's Mike, sound like they may be worth a look. I have heard Link has upped their pricing/tier of product?
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SpankyDevil
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#11 Post by SpankyDevil » Sat Jan 08, 2011 3:58 pm

ok was a good day today got a few things made up

made a sleve to fit the pilot bearing & made a clutch alignment tool

have now fitted the clutch & pressure plate (EB Falcon pressure plate to suit the flywheel)

wish i could say i wouldnt have to remove it all again but i still need to paint the engine any ideas on what colour i should paint it dont like the blue reminds me to much of FORD

heres a pic of what colour im painting the car
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Gammy
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#12 Post by Gammy » Sat Jan 08, 2011 7:22 pm

Silver block and a nice solid red for the valve covers

SpankyDevil
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#13 Post by SpankyDevil » Sat Apr 09, 2011 3:26 pm

allright abit of an update i now have a Link V5 computer and have got the injectors and manifold sorted

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Last edited by SpankyDevil on Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

ultrapulse
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#14 Post by ultrapulse » Sat Apr 09, 2011 5:02 pm

Anything large and turboed should do the trick in a 2+0 :)

I think even un-iuntercooled you should easily be able to run at least 5psi with 98oct...8.6:1 comp is quite low even for a less than average chamber. Actually to be honest I don't think you'll be happy with that setup in NA form power-wise, you'll find it very flat. (sorry just being honest). With the right exhaust it'll sound cool though which counts for something :D

Good progress mate, keep it up!!
Bolts straight up...yeah right!!

SpankyDevil
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#15 Post by SpankyDevil » Sat Apr 23, 2011 3:33 pm

little update made some brackets for the Link V5 not the nicest as i used some old scrap alloy.

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have all so started trying to work out the wiring talk about pulling hair out abit suck with the ones in red if anyone can help please

Link V5

All Black Wires – Ground
Blue – Normal Ignition Dizzy White
Blue Inside Shielding – Not Used (Trigger 2)
Yellow inside Shielding – Dizzy Purple/White
Blue/Black – Inverted Ignition – Not Used
Blue/White – Tacho
Brown – 4 X Injectors
Orange – 4 X Injectors
Red from Injectors – 12v Ignition
Brown/Black – Fan Relay Negative
Brown/White – Boost Control Relay Negative (Diode D3 Removed Main Board) no relay needed
Purple – Fuel Pump Relay Negative
Red – 12v Ignition
Red/Blue 5 Volts - Throttle Position Sensor, Dizzy Tan/Black
White/Blue – Throttle Position Sensor
Red/White – 12V Positive Output
White – Narrow Band O2 Sensor
Yellow – Engine Temp

Coil

2 Pin Plug
Large Pink – 12V Positive Ignition
White –

Dizzy

The Four Pin Connector Wired As Such
Purple/White [Pin R] - Tach Signal - Yellow inside Shielding Link V5
White [Pin E] - Advance Control Signal - Blue Link V5
Tan/Black [Pin B] - Override (Cranking) Signal – Red/Blue – 5 Volts Link V5
Black/Red [Grounded To Distributor Case] - Ground

Engine Room Loom

Brown Plug
Orange – Low Pressure Switch (connects to ECU & Aircon Relay)
Green – Power Steering Oil Pressure Switch – Not Used
Purple – Left Hand Model Fuel Pump Control Unit & ECU – Not used
Yellow/Blue – Neutral Switch & AT Control Unit – Not Used
Black/Pink – Fuel Pump Control Unit – Not Used
Sky Blue – A/C Control Unit & Thermo Amplifier (connects to ECU)
Orange – Ignition Coil Relay & E.C.C.S Relay (switches Grey Plug Black) – negative switched from ignition
Black/Red – Fuse Box through 10A to Ignition Switch – o2 Sensor & Boost Solenoid 12v Positive

Grey Plug
Blue – Radiator Fan Relay – Brown/Black Link V5
White – Radiator Fan Sub Relay – Not used
White/Black – Fuel Pump Relay & Ignition Coil Relay & Fusible Link Holder – Red from injectors Link V5
White – E.C.C.S Relay – 12V AFM, CAS Not Used
Black – Ignition Coil Relay – Coil Large Pink
Green – Aircon Pump

White Plug
Yellow/Green – Combination Meter (Check Engine Light & Electric Speed Ometer)
Black/White – Check Connector – Not Used
Black/Yellow – Ignition Switch Starter through Fuse Block – Not Used
Orange – Fuel Pump Relay & Fuel Pump & Fuel Pump Control Unit – Air Regulator – Not Used
Yellow/Green - Combination Meter (Check Engine Light & Electric Speed Ometer)
Black/Red – Ignition Switch through 10A Fuse –Red 12V Link V5
Yellow/Red (Auto) – A/T Control Unit – Not Used
Blue – Check Connector – Not Used
Orange – Check Connector – Not Used
White – Check Connector – Not Used
Black/Pink – Fuel Pump Relay – Purple Link V5
Red – Connects To Purple Wire Brown Plug Left Hand Drive Model & Fuel Pump Control Unit Not Used
Yellow/Red – Check Connector & Tachometer – Blue/White Link V5
Last edited by SpankyDevil on Sun Jun 19, 2011 12:36 pm, edited 8 times in total.

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