Z32 survival guide

Talk about anything 300ZX
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ZFetsh
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Z32 survival guide

#1 Post by ZFetsh » Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:54 pm

Wanna keep you and your car safe? Heres some handy hints to keep your Z car experience enjoyable, sorted alphabetically

If you have anything to add to the list, please reply in the same format - your hint will be added with your name added to recognise your contribution.

ABS failure - safer driving: (ZFetsh)
The 300ZX has possibly the best braking setup of its class back in the day, possibly even better than the Mk4 Supra - when the ABS fails, its surprisingly easy to lock up! Avoid heavy braking when the road is not dry, especially on corners, Even the legendary Rowan locked up P8RIOT at 130km/h when he was not used to no ABS.

Clutch hydraulics failure - how to get home: (ZFetsh)
You can still drive with no clutch pressure, but this should only be attempted where you have quiet intersections between you and your destination. You should also expect not to go much faster than 50km/h!
1) If you are on an uphill, manouvir the car so you are pointing down the hill
2) Put the car into 2nd gear
3) Make sure your path is clear as there will be a moment where you will want to keep going forward without having to worry about stopping
4) Press the accelerator to the floor and hold the key in the start position until the car can run without it, as it may take you a few meters before the engine has enough rpm to not stall
5) You can now drive the car in 2nd gear to your destination!
Warning: your engine power will overpower your brakes when you try to come to a dead stop - to stop, gentle ease off the throttle, and then it should be effortless to ease the gearbox out of gear, then put the brakes on.
For more advanced techniques, you can ease the gearbox out of gear by easing off the throttle and once you get the rpm in the right spot, the gearbox will allow you to put the gearbox in whatever gearbox you like with ease.
It is important that you do not continue to do this as it may damage your starter motor - this should be used as a last resort to get you home or to your mechanic

PTU failure - how to get home:
The PTU controls the timing of the coils, controlling when the cylinders fire - if you are unfortionate enough to have the coils start firing out of sequence, you may still be able to drive it! Most of the time this is caused by heat fatigue over many years, but if you cool the PTU down, it may still work for a little while - try these methods to get home.
Method 1: (Rubber)
If you're handy to a supermarket, servo station or whatnot, and are able to take the ptu off, get a bag of party ice and wrap a rag or something with ice around the PTU. Cools the bastard off and gives you 15 mins of top performance before you need to stop and replace the ice. Got me from Penrose to Whangarei (and around 8 stops)
Method 2: (ZFetsh)
1) Turn your car off for half an hour (go for a walk to cool off!)
2) Put your hazard lights on
3) Put your car in gear, be prepared to accelerate as soon as the engine is idling, accelerate to ideal speed using as low rpm as possible, turn the engine off and coast for a few seconds. When you start getting down too slow, start your engine again, get up to speed, and turn your engine off.
It is important that you use your engine at low rpm and as little as possible - you would be surprised how far you can get. Remember to keep as far left as possible to allow others to pass. Also remember you will have no braking assistance and heavy steering, but this is a little price to pay to be able to drive home or to the mechanic.

Temperature gauge suddenly reads 0: (ZFetsh)
It is likely that you are loosing water in your cooling system, and the point where the water temp sensor reads no longer has water to measure from, so reads as 0
1) TURN ENGINE OFF IMEDIATELY!
2) Pull over
3) Check underside of the car for water leaks
4) Only when the radiator is cool should you open the radiator cap to check the water level, but if you are keen, you can turn it a quarter turn to bleed off pressure (only if you know what its going to do should you do this!)
Running an Z engine on no water kills it really really quickly, and an engine replacement will be required - the heads will almost certainly need replacing, but overheating any engine beyond its normal operating temperature will never end well!!!

Turbo overboost - how to drive without blowing up your engine!: (ZFetsh)
Too much boost can damage your engine, but not from the pressure - excessive boost when your turbo is not big enough causes an exponential amount of heat, dramatically raising the risk of detonation, which will almost certainly end in serious rod or piston failure and a very expessive engine rebuild.
In the event of your boost running higher than normal, combine the following driving techniques:
Keep to low RPM's: turbo's require exhaust volume to spin, so keeping to low RPM's will reduce the amount of exhaust gas feeding the turbo's.
Don't use full throttle: as above, as the wider the throttle, the more fuel in the engine, and the more exhaust pressure produced.
Now if my information is right, you can also induce safety boost by disconecting the water temp sensor BUT this will only work if you use the stock boost solenoids and YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENT! Doing this will also disable OD on automatics.

Uncontrolled slide - recovery from:
Moved to seperate discussion.
Last edited by ZFetsh on Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:39 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Warning - lysdexia strikes without warning!

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paulwood
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Re: Z32 survival guide

#2 Post by paulwood » Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:22 am

ZFetsh wrote: ABS failure - safer driving: (ZFetsh)
The 300ZX has possibly the best braking setup of its class back in the day, possibly even better than the Mk4 Supra - when the ABS fails, its surprisingly easy to lock up! Avoid heavy braking when the road is not dry, especially on corners, Even the legendary Rowan locked up P8RIOT at 130km/h when he was not used to no ABS.

Turbo overboost - how to drive without blowing up your engine!: (ZFetsh)
Too much boost can damage your engine, but not from the pressure - excessive boost when your turbo is not big enough causes an exponential amount of heat, dramatically raising the risk of detonation, which will almost certainly end in serious rod or piston failure and a very expessive engine rebuild.
In the event of your boost running higher than normal, combine the following driving techniques:
Keep to low RPM's: turbo's require exhaust volume to spin, so keeping to low RPM's will reduce the amount of exhaust gas feeding the turbo's.
Don't use full throttle: as above, as the wider the throttle, the more fuel in the engine, and the more exhaust pressure produced.
Now if my information is right, you can also induce safety boost by disconecting the water temp sensor BUT this will only work if you use the stock boost solenoids and YOU WILL NOT HAVE ANY TEMPERATURE MEASUREMENT! Doing this will also disable OD on automatics.
ABS failure:
The ABS fails on my old Jeep Cherokee, oh, yeah, its really easy to lock up in a raining day, Even at motorway speed it locked up, just pump the brake the old fashion way like a manual ABS.

Turbo overboost:
I thought the more unburned fuel in the engine, the cooler is the engine, so just use lower gear to reduce the engine load.
SAE the one who set the standard on the motor oil.

http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/810316
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samnlou
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#3 Post by samnlou » Sat Jan 26, 2008 2:45 am

Just read this. All good!

Most performance engines (especially Turbo engines) are set to run a little on the rich side. More fuel encourages the burn to be a little cooler, helping to prevent piston heating up and subsequent detonation etc leading to spectacular failure. While this does not lead to peak combusion in terms of power, it does lead to peak reliability and life, which most people who do not own an engine rebuild shop tend to like in a motor.

Been down the 'blew it up cuz it was running lean' road, done that (thankfully not in a zed). Was a Mitsu turbo (need I say more?)
I don't have too many cars...
I just need a bigger driveway ;)

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seagull
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#4 Post by seagull » Fri Aug 10, 2012 8:24 pm

ABS failure - safer driving: (ZFetsh)
The 300ZX has possibly the best braking setup of its class back in the day, possibly even better than the Mk4 Supra - when the ABS fails, its surprisingly easy to lock up! Avoid heavy braking when the road is not dry, especially on corners, Even the legendary Rowan locked up P8RIOT at 130km/h when he was not used to no ABS.
The day after I picked up my Z, I had to use it to go up ruapehu to the Ski field - great time to discover that the ABS didn't work! :D

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