Mint. In my humble opinion, I would say that would be the way to go for most applications around. I've not seen any design of adjustable top arm I'd really trust long term, there are just too many different forces they have to cope with. I went there once with the threaded type, but definitely wouldn't recommend them (kept loosening off..) and the slotted type look to be prone to cracking, both of these issues are due to torsion through the arm. If the calculated shim thickness is reasonable then I can't see to many down sides. You could even make up a slotted set ("C" shaped ) of shims of various thicknesses for dialing in cars on the wheel alignment machine before fitting the final solid round shims to make it a bit quicker and easier...Mungyz wrote:Yip pretty much bang on & any DECENT wheel alignment shop should be able to MAKE the shims as required to sort it out.
And as I have said there is the option to make as required, I don't recommend getting carried away and using half inch thick spacers or anything silly like that though.
These don't need a cert, adjustable arms do however and the cert instantly adds a $500 bill to the job.
tire wear
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Perhaps another option...
When I picked up mine (nearly 10 years ago!!!) the whole setup was way firm and horrible.
Turn out the tyres were lower profile than they should have been. Replacing with a better tyre size on the stock rim transformed handling.
The guys who do my alignment and suspension work know I am fussy and do what I want knowing it will be right for my driving (mostly open road). They are of the opinion that the shock/springs have been replaced at some point as the car sits slightly lower than they expected.
I've had all bushes replaced:
lower inners (front and rear) are standard rubber items
all else are nolathane reds.
All the bolts have been replaced with HT camber pins that give up to 5mm movement. This allows them to dial in positions exactly
I'll do an alignment with tyres and maybe one more between.
Suspension arms are standard items.
No problems since work done. Suspension is firm without being race-car hard. Tyres wear evenly, no major tracking/hunting.
My toy is a daily driver when I am in NZ and is treated pretty gently most of the time. Having said that a little entertainment does happen
Hope that helps
When I picked up mine (nearly 10 years ago!!!) the whole setup was way firm and horrible.
Turn out the tyres were lower profile than they should have been. Replacing with a better tyre size on the stock rim transformed handling.
The guys who do my alignment and suspension work know I am fussy and do what I want knowing it will be right for my driving (mostly open road). They are of the opinion that the shock/springs have been replaced at some point as the car sits slightly lower than they expected.
I've had all bushes replaced:
lower inners (front and rear) are standard rubber items
all else are nolathane reds.
All the bolts have been replaced with HT camber pins that give up to 5mm movement. This allows them to dial in positions exactly
Suspension arms are standard items.
No problems since work done. Suspension is firm without being race-car hard. Tyres wear evenly, no major tracking/hunting.
My toy is a daily driver when I am in NZ and is treated pretty gently most of the time. Having said that a little entertainment does happen
Hope that helps
I don't have too many cars...
I just need a bigger driveway
I just need a bigger driveway
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